Posted by: brigid benson | March 8, 2010

The magic of Pen Llyn

Porth Colman

Another magnificent weekend on the magical Llyn peninsula, Pen Llyn.  Here Welsh language and culture are strong and there’s a real sense of escaping to another world. I love it.

Found my friend Sion, the fisherman farmer, at Porth Colman. He was still going strong despite working by day to harvest crab and lobster from the sea and delivering newborn lambs through the night on his dad’s farm.  Thanks to Sion, I left with a bootful of wandering live crabs. But, because I’m hopelessly squeamish about cooking them, Mary and Gareth at Selective Seafoods generously did the deed for me, dressing them beautifully too.

Pen Llyn enjoys its own micro climate and the weather is spectacular even when it’s foul.  This was a weekend of heavenly blue skies, real warmth in the spring sun and sheets of snowdrops. At Aberdaron, St Hywyn’s church on the beach seemed warmed by mediterranean light.  Here lie the Welsh – Owens, Jones and Roberts in graves marked by smooth slate headstones.

Pen Llyn snowdrops

St Hywyn's church, Aberdaron

Miserable moles

There were more dead at a farm nearby. Unfortunate moles pinned to barbed wire fences, served as a terrible warning to any of their kind who might be thinking of working the fields.

Watching the sun sink into the sea from Mynydd Mawr, one of my favourite places, is spectacular. At the day’s end, sheep trot across the heath to snuggle in hollows out of the wind.

Sunset from Mynyndd Mawr

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